¶ Zone RV Peregrine Toolbox Hinge
The hinge on my Peregrine toolbox had begun to deform. I picked up my van from storage today and thankfully got to it in time so I don't have to replace the Centaflex hinge itself. It is worth checking your toolbox the as soon as you can, especially in the hotter weather.
This is something I suggest people do in advance to avoid this. If you do only one thing, replace your struts!
A few points before we start:
- The hinge is not the problem - it's the struts. Zone RV used 2x 150Nm struts from I.R.S. Just ONE of these is strong enough to open the hatch and hold it open. This means the force when it is closed (and both struts are under compression) is too much force and is pushing up onto the hinge causing it to deform. I've replaced these - I recommend you do too - see below!
- If you have rivets on the door instead of bolts, I highly recommend replacing them with the bolts while you do this. The details for these are:
The official supplier for Zone RV was KJ Bolt. You may be able to source these elsewhere, but for more information in sourcing these from KJ please visit them here: https://www.kjbolt.com.au/
You'll need the following:
-
New struts.
I've purchased the 4x Goliath 502mm 100N Black Low Pressure Gas Strut. They are slightly shorter than the 525mm ones Zone RV provided, but they work perfectly in the first or second holes closest to the hinge (when open). -
Aluminium Flat Bar
To strengthen the hinge, I placed a 16mm x 3mm Black Aluminium Flat bar between the "Connector Nut" and the Centaflex. Note: there is a slim chance of galvanic corrosion over time between the Stainless Steel nut and Aluminium - keep an eye on it or use a nylon bushing around the connector nut. -
Make sure you are using 20mm M6 Furniture Bolts. The 18mm that come from Zone RV are too short and don't allow for the extra 3mm required for the flat bar.
If you can't source the stainless steel ones, you can use these from Bunnings - they have a Ruspert coating which can be OK with Stainless Steel, but replace if you are concerned about different metals and possible corrosion.
¶ Steps
- Using two shifters or two spanners, undo the top and bottom nuts holding one of the struts in place. Remove it. Fix the new strut in place - exact same configuration as the one you removed. Now do the other strut. Repeat on the other side.
- If you want to strengthen the hinge, I suggest getting a second person to help (I did it on my own and it is NOT recommended). Take photos as you disassemble so you know how it goes back together.
- Measure and cut the Aluminium Flat Bar to the width of the door. Mark it with the positions of the bolts, and drill using a drill bit slightly larger than the "Connector/Sleeve Nuts" shaft, as they will sit into this when done. The idea is to spread the load across the hinge instead of point loads where each bolt are.
- Using two hex/alan keys., undo each of the hex bolts across the top of the door. Be careful and ensure your second person is holding the door.
- If your hinge is deformed, use a heat gun and some pliars to get it back into shape - be careful as PVC can melt very easily. The main aim is to fit the Flat Bar into the U shaped space.
- While holding the door back in place, insert the flat bar underneath and one at a time fix the new 25mm furniture bolts (re-using the washers) in through the door into the Sleeve Nuts. Tighten slightly but not fully.
- When all are inserted, tighten each, ensuring the flat bar is firmly in the U shaped groove.
Once done, you should now have a door that doesn't deform again.
Below are some before and after example photos.
Disclaimer: This article is based on the experience and knowledge of community members and is provided for general information only. It is not a substitute for professional advice. Caravan systems can be safety-critical, and any actions you take based on this information are done entirely at your own risk. If you are unsure, consult a qualified technician or relevant professional before proceeding.